Thursday, April 9, 2015

Cambodia: The land of temples…and numerous types of massages

or Wat, among other temples in the area. The easiest way to get to Cambodia from Hyderabad is via Singapore. Easy enough. Unless the only flight from Cambodia to Singapore gets in AFTER the only flight from Singapore to Hyderabad leaves.  So, we shifted our plans to basically spend a day in Singapore. Then that flight got cancelled and moved to the next day. So our layover turned into a two day stay!  But back to this post…

Getting to Siem Riep, Cambodia was pretty easy; especially since we applied for our visas online before the trip. That allowed us to bypass about 95% of the other passengers and get through immigration lickety split! Then we had to decide whether or not to exchange dollars for the local currency (Riel). We passed...and it’s a good thing we did. The exchange rate is about 4,000:1...and everyone accepts US Dollars; some exclusively.

Because of the overnight flight we had to take, we decided to "relax" at the hotel for the day. But when Annabelle's definition of relaxing is to swim for almost two hours, it ended up being a pretty tiring day.

We decided to spend the next day touring the main temples in the area: Angkor Wat, Bayan (main temple in Angkor Thom), and Ta Prohm. Each of the temples is approximately 800 to 1,000 years old and in various states of restoration.

Angkor Wat is the most popular temple in the area and surrounded by a huge man-made moat. This protected the temple from too much encroachment from the forest for hundreds of years. It was initially built as a Hindu temple to the god Vishnu; which was uncommon as most Hindu temples were/are for Shiva. The main legend of this temple was about the struggle between the gods and demons. In order to remain immortal, the gods needed holy water. To obtain this they had to move a mountain into the sea. They then wrapped a snake/serpent around the mountain; which the gods and demons struggled against each other to pull. The pulling of the snake made the mountain spin...thereby creating the holy water. This story was carved into one on the walls of the temple. Over the years, the temple eventually converted into a Buddhist temple, again into a Hindu temple, and finally back into a Buddhist temple as it remains today.

There are five large towers and three levels to Angkor Wat, with the third level being the most holy where there are several shrines to Buddha. In order to get to them you have to climb a very steep set of stairs...not made any easier by the high heat and humidity; by our standards at least. And due to how sacred the space is there are no kids are allowed (neither are "sexy ladies", which we heard more than a few times from the security guys there). Annabelle was actually perfectly fine staying back with our guide, Chai, so we headed up for about 15 minutes. The craftsmanship and architecture are incredible, as are the shrines.


When we got back down we were all a little steamy, but luckily Chai knew of an ice cream shop which helped Annabelle press on to get out of the complex.


Our next stop was Bayan temple within the ancient city of Angkor Thom. This one started as Buddhist, but also went through the ol’ Hindu-back-to-Buddhist conversion. This temple was quite different than Angkor Wat, with many more towers that had several faces circling each one. There were a number of shrines there: a handful are Hindu, but the rest Buddhist. There was also quite a bit of restoration being done in a joint effort between UNESCO, The Kingdom of Cambodia, and Japan.


Next stop was an awesome lunch with some very good Khmer curry. (“Khmer” is an encompassing term in the area for the region, people, language, food, you name it.) We got an air conditioned room and recharged for the afternoon.

Our last planned stop was to the so-called "Tree Temple": Ta Prohm. This was also going through some serious restoration, thanks to help from India. As opposed to the other temples we visited, this is a long and relatively flat complex. Over the years, trees were able to take root and grow through the crevices in the stones used to construct the temple. This resulted in many trees actually growing over the walls of the temple. Very cool.


After exiting Ta Prohm, Annabelle and Griff had to get a coconut to share. With that refreshing jolt, we had one more temple left in us. This was one of the first temples in the area, over 1,000 years old and actually made out of brick. A lot of it had to be restored (with help from Germany), but the main shrine to Vishnu had been very well maintained.

We spent the entire next day in Siem Reap. A short tuk-tuk ride into town got us to the main tourist areas and we could walk everywhere we needed to once we got there. (The tuk-tuks here are motorbikes with carriages attached.)



 The first crazy thing we saw were foot massages...by fish. "Please feed our hungry fish your dead skin." Yup...you put your feet in and the fish eat the dead skin off. Lovely, right? We passed on that. Then it was into the old market; a large indoor market where you can buy produce, fresh fish and other meat, and myriad souvenirs.  We were apparently too inquisitive with prices in one of the first shops. When Amanda asked the woman a price of maybe the fourth or fifth item...the woman paused for a moment, started folding up a dress and said, "Don't ask if you not going to buy."  Burn. Other than that we had a good time bartering.

After lunch, we wanted to check out the Night Market area, but it wasn't open yet...at 3:00 in the afternoon...go figure. So instead the girls decided to get pedicures at a local shop. I got a little bored and decided to go for a walk. Bad idea. Very. Bad. Idea.

It turns out that the vigor with which people offer massages increases quite a bit as a lone male. In no less than two minutes I got four offers. The first woman almost smacked me with her massage menu when I said "no, thank you"...I knew at that point something was a little different. The second woman simply asked me "why not" as I walked by; a little better...what a nice lady (maybe not...see below). The third offer came from a lovely gentleman lounging in a chair and in the form of several loud kissing gestures. The fourth is what really got to me (so far).  She didn't want to give me a chance to say no and keep walking, as evidenced by her pressing her entire body against mine and literally pushing me (hey, watch those hands, lady!) several times toward her shop.

Whoa. Okay. So, at the end of the block I realized I now had to turn around and walk the gauntlet again. The Aggressor ignored me this time, but my guy friend had to ask me a few times "why not" as I kept walking. I was able to muster a smile and a laugh for him, at least. But then...that nice little lady from before came up again, closer. This time it was, "You want massage? ... I put inside." Now, I can ONLY assume she meant she'd put my bag inside the massage parlor for safekeeping..............right?  C'mon, you know better than that. And so did I.

I got back to nail place and was shell-shocked. Amanda knew something was up immediately, but I decided it best to wait to give her the details until our child was out of earshot. Wowee zowee. That was quite the experience.

To calm down a bit we went on a shopping spree and got some pretty good deals, including a nice backpack for our Europe trip and a new suitcase to hold all the other stuff we had to buy.  We also found a catholic church hidden in a corner of town, which was an interesting experience.  They definitely adapted to local culture as they had everyone remove shoes and sit on the floor during mass (no standing and very limited kneeling).  They also had a very interesting sculpture of Mary and some great music to rock out to.  Even though we were hot and tired, we were very glad we went.  Very cool experience.

On our last day we found a vegetarian restaurant that had a bunch of fair-trade items, as well as a yoga class. There was also a bonus swing in the mix for Annabelle.  This whole complex was amazing. It was remarkably difficult to find vegetarian food in Cambodia, so the fact that this place had yoga, swings, fair trade products, and it was exclusively vegetarian meant that we needed to spend the whole day there!

So, we got to experience some amazing ruins, lots of bartering, great food, yoga, pedicures for the girls, and I even got propositioned for the first time in my life. SUCCESS! Thanks Cambodia!


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